February 14, 2003 12:08 PM

The river itself is the main attraction

Photo: Gary Krambeck Sailboats make their way back to shore at the Lake Davenport club in Davenport after competing in the Polar Bear Regatta last September.

``We move up the river -- always through enchanting scenery, there being no other kind on the Upper Mississippi . . . ''

-- Mark Twain, ``Life on the Mississippi,'' 1883

``The Mississippi River is possibly the main attraction of the Quad-Cities. Everything we do is done in, along, or over the river,'' said Joe Taylor, president of the Quad-Cities Convention and Visitors Bureau.

He read aloud the results of a survey of 3,546 tourists on the Quad-Cities CVB Web site. The question: Why do you come to the Quad-Cities? (Respondents could choose multiple answers.) Sixty-two percent said ``the river.'' Forty-six percent said ``gaming riverboats.'' Twenty percent said ``non-gaming riverboats.'' Of course, you can't have riverboats without the river.

We also have many river activities beyond the boats. Which of them is the greatest attraction? Taylor said, ``The river itself is the attraction. It's a gathering place, the artery of commerce. You can watch bald eagles in the winter and go bike-riding in the summer. It's a place of radiant beauty.''

We didn't always see the river that way. True, it had been a source of wonder, as well as water and food, for thousands of years. It had been a vital mode of transportation for hundreds of years. However, during the last half of the 19th century, the rise of the railroad reduced river traffic dramatically.

After that, the Quad-Cities seemed to have overlooked the river's possibilities. Taylor said that the hardships the agricultural sector suffered in the 1970s and 1980s led us to reevaluate the river. The new interest in riverfront development was part of the diversification and recovery of our economy.

Development is continuing here with River Renaissance, a $113.5 million project to be completed by May 2005. It will bring the River Music Center, Figge Arts Center, and the AgTech Commercialization Center to downtown Davenport. The River Music Skybridge, two public parking buildings and renovation of the Adler Theatre are also part of the plan.

A celebrity in our living room

The Mississippi is the Elvis of rivers. Larger than life. Known worldwide. Pure Americana. One of the most frequent questions tourists ask of staff at the Quad-Cities CVB is, ``Where can I dip my toe into the Mississippi?''

Travelers from outside the United States are often well-versed in river lore, and in awe of the Father of Waters. Quad-Citians, though, can be a bit jaded sometimes when it comes to the Mississippi. Many of us see it daily. We take its fame, its history, even its size for granted.

Taylor said that a question visitors ask frequently on the balcony of the Mississippi Valley Welcome Center is ``What lake is that?'' They can't believe such a huge body of water is a river. Seeing it in person is overwhelming.

We're fortunate that people like to be overwhelmed. A lot of them take the trouble to travel here from other countries, too. According to the Mississippi River Parkway Commission, international visitors spend an estimated $2.6 billion annually in the 10 states through which the river runs. This demand for tourism services generates more than 53,000 jobs.

We are getting better at appreciating the river -- the natural wonder, the national treasure with which we live. There are always more ways to do that, of course.

One of Taylor's peeves is that some of the highway signage in this area is less than impressive. The words ``Mississippi River'' are in comparatively small type. It's not like anybody could miss that expanse of water. However, reading a prominent sign and knowing they're actually driving over the famous Big Muddy would give travelers a grin. They might even stop and visit a while.

BOATING

Island Marina

Campbell's Island, East Moline

People still make their homes on this island where Chief Black Hawk and his men battled Lt. John Campbell and his soldiers during the War of 1812. A similar battle took place on Credit Island in Davenport the same year (see below).

Public launch ramps

There are more than a dozen in the area, including:

Main Street at Mississippi River, Davenport

Ben Butterworth Parkway, River Drive at 55th Street, Moline

Leach Park, 12th Street at Mississippi River, Bettendorf

FISHING AND CAMPING

The Mississippi is home to more than 15 different species of fish, and there are 85 major access areas from the shores. Fees vary for different types of resident and nonresident fishing licenses and permits. Anglers on the Mississippi River proper may use either Iowa or Illinois fishing licenses.

Fisherman's Corner Campground

Hampton, Ill.

Renovated in 1995, all of its campground's facilities are accessible to people with disabilities. It boasts views of Lock and Dam 14, and an aquatic marsh with its wildlife. There are picnic grounds, and bank and levee fishing spots. Reservations are required. Open dates this year are April 11 through October 26.

HIKING, BIKING, IN-LINE SKATING

The trail names are tangled in the Quad-Cities, as various recreational paths -- city, regional, and national -- join or overlap one another. More connections are coming.

American Discovery Trail

This California-to-Delaware trail goes through several cities on the Illinois side, crosses the river at the Arsenal Bridge, and follows the river to Muscatine.

Great River Trail

It starts at Sunset Park, Rock Island and runs 62 miles to Savanna, almost all of it with river views.

Ben Butterworth Parkway

River Drive, Moline

Part of the Great River Trail, it runs for 2.2 miles. It includes a marina, two boat launches, three playgrounds, restaurants, and a picnic area.

Rock Island Arsenal Bike Trail

This four-mile trek takes you around historic points of interest, including the Col. George Davenport House, the Arsenal Museum, and the National and Confederate Cemetaries.

RiverWay Art Projects

The nonprofit group River Action commissioned nine river-themed art pieces. They are installed on trails along both sides of the river.

RiverWay Trail

RiverWay is connecting various existing recreational paths on the Iowa side. Part of the project was installing signs along the trails with historical information.

The Mississippi River Trail, when complete, will extend through 10 states and 2,000 miles, from Minnesota to Louisiana. In our area, it follows the RiverWay Trail.

Tour of the Mississippi River Valley (TOMRV)

Spring, annually; this year, Saturday and Sunday, June 7 and 8

Cyclers on this challenging tour take scenic roads to Dubuque and back, starting from either Bettendorf or Preston.

Quad-Cities Marathon

Late September, annually; this year, Sunday September 28

This 26.2-mile foot race starts and finishes at The MARK of the Quad-Cities; it goes through five cities and over several bridges.

SIGHTSEEING

Bald Eagle Days

Annually, January and February

The Mississippi River Valley is one of five major ``flyways'' for migrating birds in this country. Bald eagles make their home in our area from December through early March. They winter here because dam turbulence creates open water where they can fish. Watch them on the Mississippi below Lock and Dam 15, Rock Island/Davenport, and below Lock and Dam 14, Rapids City/LeClaire. Special programs are held at the QCCA Expo Center in Rock Island and other sites.

Great River Road

This scenic route winds through 10 states, from the source of the river to its mouth. The road is mostly separate from the interstates. The Great River Road sections in Iowa and Illinois each received the designation of National Scenic Byway in 2000. This made the Byways eligible for several million dollars in grant money for improvements.

Mississippi River Visitor Center

Arsenal Island

Here are observation decks for watching towboats going through Lock and Dam 15. The park rangers offer tours of the Lock and Dam, historical bike tours of Arsenal Island, a movie about the Upper Mississippi, and a bald eagle-watching tour and presentation.

They also give on- or off-site programs for schools, clubs, and churches on area wildlife, forests, soil, water, and boating safety. Historical programs include information about the river, nearby bridges, and Arsenal Island.

Smith's Island Recreational Area

Lock and Dam 14

Hike and watch wildlife on the Nature Trail; fish on the pier or the shoreline at this outdoor spot which had been closed for nearly three years. Picnic facilities are available, and you can reserve shelters.

Sunset Park Mississippi Overlook

Rock Island

Enjoy outdoor gardens on the riverbank.

ACTIVITIES

Credit Island Park

Davenport

The island's nine-hole golf course is home to the Chili Golf Open the first weekend each February, for the golfer who can't wait for spring. Other athletes can enjoy the ball diamond, tennis court, or recreational trail, or go fishing or boating. It has also been a venue for walkathons and cross-country running competitions.

It's a good place to spot wildlife, including the visiting bald eagles. The Urban Indian Tribal Organization holds the Annual Summerfest Powwow there the second weekend in September. There is a playground, and you can rent an indoor lodge there for picnics.

Historically, the island was a fur trading post (hence the name). Part of the land was used for Native American burial. In 1814 it was the site of the only international conflict in Iowa, involving British and American troops, Chief Blackhawk, and Zachary Taylor, who would later become president.

``Sunday in the Park'' is an art installation of life-sized painted wooden figures. It depicts the island's past as a Victorian recreation spot, and was inspired by the pointillist painting Sunday Afternoon on the Isle of La Grande Jatte by Georges Seurat. Another unusual sight on the island is a United States Army heavy tank from the 1950s.

Great River Tug Fest

LeClaire and Port Byron, annually; this year, August 11 and 12

For two hours, river traffic stops while teams on each side of the Mississippi hold a tug-of-war across the river. Activities include a Tug Run, a horseshoe tournament, a kids' tug-of-war and fun run, and a Tug Queen Pageant. There are craft booths, music, and fireworks.

Putnam Museum and IMAX Theatre

Davenport

The Putnam, on Museum Hill overlooking the river, has a permanent exhibit featuring the Mississippi, ``River, Prairie and People.'' A new permanent exhibit, ``Black Earth/Big River,'' explores the habitats of our region. Through March 20, the IMAX Theater will be showing Lewis & Clark: Great Journey West, about two of the most famous travelers on the Mississippi.

Davenport Museum of Art

The museum, also on Museum hill, exhibits several rotating collections, including the American and Regionalist Collections. Check before you visit about which collections are on view, and for information on classes and special events. On Thursday March 6 at 7 p.m., Quad-Cities Poet Laureate Dick Stahl will take ``A Poetical Look at the Mississippi River and the Rural Midwest.''

MUSIC

Major musical events held by the river in LeClaire Park, Davenport include:

Mississippi Valley Blues Festival

Three stages feature international and regional blues artists. Also includes an after-Fest jam, workshops for children and adults, and a photo exhibit.

(first weekend in July; this year, Thursday through Saturday, July 3-5)

Bix Beiderbecke Jazz Festival

(Three days in late July; this year, Thursday through Sunday, July 24-27)

It's music, a race, and a giant party honoring native Davenport coronet player, the world-renowned Bix Beiderbecke. There are jazz band concerts in the bandshell next to the river and at other venues. Food is available; picknicking is allowed. There is a street fest with entertainment, arts and crafts. A road race and big event in its own right, the Bix 7, brings thousands of runners from around the world to Brady Street Hill.

Riverfront Pops

(The weekend after Labor Day; this year, Saturday, September 6)

The Quad City Symphony Orchestra plays pops and light classical music, with live cannon fire and fireworks at the finale. Food is available; picnicking is allowed.

RESOURCES

* General Information

Quad-Cities Convention and Visitors Bureau, (563) 322-3911, (800), 747-7800, www.visitquadcities.com/

Quad City Questions & Answers -- Things To Do, www.qconline.com/qcqa/todo.shtml

Locks and Dams, Camping, Water Recreation, Rock Island District, US Army Corps of Engineers, River Recreation, (309) 794-5839, www.mvr.usace.army.mil/missriver/

FISHING

Iowa Department of Natural Resources, (515) 281-3474, (800) 275-3474 (ask fish), www.state.ia.us/dnr/organiza/fwb/fish/

Illinois Department of Natural Resources, (217) 782-6424, (800) 275-3474, www.us/admin/systems/fishing.htm

HIKING AND BIKING

Quad-Cities trail map: (563) 322-2969, www.riveractionorg/trail.php

Iowa online trail map: www.msp.dot.state.ia.us/trans_data/mrsid/bikemap.html

Order free Iowa Transportation Map for Bicyclists: (515) 239-1713, www.dot.state.ia.us/bikemaporder.htm

Illinois online trail map: www.dot.state.il.us/bikemap/state.htm